The title is a tongue twister but it is not as hard as getting a new Nissan Leaf. I thought I was good at getting a new car but I still messed up a bit this time. I was quick and efficient, i.e. I sent out the price inquiry email one day, and next day went to the dealership, did the test drive and got the car. However I was not well prepared, got an unexpected price increase and a couple other surprises. I am sharing everything about getting a Nissan Leaf (either lease or purchase), so that you will do better than me. I hope this video will save you time and money.
It is easier if you make a cash purchase because you only need to the compare out-door price. For electrical vehicle, there are some good reasons to lease, but then there are more variables to compare, thus you need to watch this video. I will talk about what feature/option you should get, how to compare the prices/terms, energy rebates, caveat, VPP pricing etc.
$7500 Fed Tax Credit
$2500 State (California)
participating charge station
Discount PG&E Off-peak rate discounts
Quick Charge Port
Business Associate Company Employees
Online excel sheet company code
Online email code
NNA and Affiliate Company Employees
Free metered parking in San Jose
Nissan No Charge to Charge Program
This video shows 6 steps to remove the old oxygen sensor & 6 steps to install a new Oxygen sensor.
Starting from the beginning when you received an engine warning light, what do you do?
I got the P0141 code (you may have other codes). It indicates that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly. Either the heating element on the sensor is not working, or the heating circuit is open, many possible places that the wires are disconnected. Since the engine light only comes on a few days after reset, I decided it is more likely the sensor is not working.
The 2nd question is should it be genuine OEM part or universal sensor? Of course you are interested in this: where is the cheapest place for the genuine Honda oxygen sensor?
Got the P0141 code which is: the controller tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin operation. If too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0141. There are 2 possibilities:
1. the heating element on the sensor is not working.
2. the heating circuit is open, many possible places that the wires are disconnected.
I measured the resistance of the heating element, which is about 6 ohm. Since after reset the engine light does not come on until a few days later, I decide just to replace the oxygen sensor.
P0141 is for the “secondary oxygen sensor” when you order from Honda. Or the “downstream oxygen sensor” when you order from third party store.
I will order one from Honda instead of using the Bosch’s Universal Oxygen Sensor.
About the Bosch’s Universal Oxygen Sensor:
I am going to show you 3 Different Ways To Change Power Steering Fluid.
first way: This method is from manufacture’ repair service manual.
2nd way: This is modified version of the first method with two people.
3rd way: This is my easy and lazy way. My easy way not only would eliminate many potential problems, but also it is good for any not mechanically adept person.
How to Change the Front Brake Pads on a Honda Accord
1 Park your Accord & engage its emergency brake (because emergency brake only applies to rear brake).
2 Remove wheel: loose nuts using lug wrench, lift the Accord’s front end off the ground using your jack and remove the nuts, and wheel.
3. Examine the Accord’s brakes, if you notice the rotor is deeply worn, scratched or gouged, you’ll need to have it resurfaced or install a new one. This video is about replacing the brake pads only.
4. Take a look at the back of the caliper. There are two bolts securing it against the rotor. Remove the bottom bolt, using a 12-mm socket wrench. Of course, turn the bolt counter-clockwise to remove it. You may now be able to simply lift the caliper upward, pivoting it on the top bolt. If not, try loosening the top bolt just a bit and try lifting it up again.
5. Examine how the old brake pads are positioned within the caliper bracket. Again, I find it easier just to take a photo of how everything looks so that you can correctly position the new pads. Once you’re clear on how it’s all put together, remove the old pads.
6. Use a C-clamp to compress the piston inside the caliper. Make sure you put an old pad between the surface of the piston and your clamp. The old pad will prevent damage to the piston. Sometimes pushing brake fluid back through the system may cause the master cylinder to overflow. You may simply use a rag to clean the drip.
7. Swing the caliper back down and bolt it into place. The “flexible” bolt housing may be in the way. Of course, if you removed only one bolt, tighten it snugly. If you removed both, remember to tighten both.
8. Bolt the wheel/tire back into place and lower the Accord to the ground. Once the Accord is on the ground, tighten the lugs.
9. Move to the other side and repeat the process to change the brake pads. You must always change both left and right brake pads. Never change just one side. When you’re finished with both left and right brakes, open the Accord’s hood and find the master cylinder. Clean any drips, look at the master cylinder. If you’ve lost any brake fluid, refill it.