How To replace dodge caravan front brake pads

How To replace dodge caravan front brake pads

Today we are going to show you how to replace dodge caravan front brake pad. Dodge Caravan 1998 (good for other similar caravan models).
Prepare:
get brake pads;
clamp; wrench;
tools to remove wheels (wrench and jack);
Steps:
1. remove the wheel
1a. remove the decorative cap
1b. loose nuts
1c. jack the car
1d. remove the nuts
1e. remove the wheel
2. remove two bolts
3. press the pads
4. remove the old brake pads
5. replace with new brake pads
6. tighten two bolts.
7. wheel back.
8. nuts back (sloped side of the nuts first, flat side of the nuts facing you).

Hardwood Floor –part 4: How to Stair and Handrail


This is part 4 of our Hardwood Floor series. If you want to see other videos of the series, visit the following links:
hardwood floor part 1: how to prepare
hardwood floor part2: how to install
hardwood floor part3: how totrim

We are going to show you how to replace your steel spiral handrails with solid hardwood handrails. Replace carpet with solid hardwood stairs.
1. don’t remove your old stair and rails. You need to use the old handrails to shape the new handrail.

2. Make handrail: apply glue to laminations- sandwich together, wipe excess glue, and tape around about every two feet to hold together. Clamp the new 7-layer laminated one to your old rail. You need to do it quick because you will only have a few minutes before it dries.

Use as many clamps as you could find to hold the rail against the old railing. If you don’t have enough clamps, I have found that making square horseshoe shaped pieces make for a great bending rail bracket.

3. remove the new handrails (which were attached to the old handrail in the above step). And then remove the old handrails, remove the old carpets etc.
4. Make Stairs: there are two kinds of planks. One I used for the regular floor, this is just a regular plank. The second kind is closer to the edge with a “nose”. Cut risers and treads to stringer frames and to each other with trim screws and finish nails. Simply cover the old wood surface with the new hardwood surface.
4. When the stair unit is completely finished. Attach the handrail with balusters. You need to have a few people to help you to hold the handrails, balusters etc.

If you want to see other videos of the series, visit the following links:
hardwood floor part 1: how to prepare
hardwood floor part2: how to install
hardwood floor part3: how totrim

Hardwood Floor –part 3: How to Trim


This is part 3 of our Hardwood Floor series.
If you want to see other videos of the series, visit the following links:
hardwood floor part 1: how to prepare
hardwood floor part2: how to install
hardwood floor part 4: how to stair and handrail

In this video we, are showing how to make a trim, and how to install trim.

7. Trim and finish
7.1. caulking, between wood and stone
7.2. Trim using finish nail
Use the stud finder to find the wood stud behind the wall.
7.3. planer and sander to save money better color match than buying molding.
If you have this kind of plain plank, how do you make this kind of trim?
Use planer, file and sander.

If you want to see other videos of the series, visit the following links:
hardwood floor part 1: how to prepare
hardwood floor part2: how to install
hardwood floor part 4: how to stair and handrail

Hardwood Floor –part 2: How to Install


Welcome to http://HandymanFix.com
This is part 2 of our Hardwood Floor series. If you want to see other videos of the series, visit the following links:
hardwood floor part 1: how to prepare
hardwood floor part3: how totrim
hardwood floor part 4: how to stair and handrail

This part 2 is:
5. Prepare subfloor
5.1. if the plywood underneath your floor is in good condition you can leave it, otherwise remove the upper layers of the floor until you reach the floor’s foundation. It is especially important to remove particle board if you floor lies upon it.
.
5.2. install plywood preferred: ¾”, min thick 5/8”.
5.3. make it flat
6. Nail
6.1. plan the interleave
6.2. inspect the width of the planks.
6.3. regular nailer is used to face nail when the floor nailer is too big.
6.4. fastening each board with at least two fasteners
6.5. 8-10″ apart and 1-1 1/2″ from the ends (to avoid splitting).
6.6. Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps before fastening.
6.7. The last 1-2 rows will need to be face-nailed where clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler or brad nailer. Pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side following
6.8. spline. Cut the paint stick and glue the two grooves together if you have to join two grooves.
6.9. High traffic area can apply glue to minimize squeaky floor boards later

5. Prepare subfloor
5.1. if the plywood underneath your floor is in good condition you can leave it, otherwise remove the upper layers of the floor until you reach the floor’s foundation. It is especially important to remove particle board if you floor lies upon it.
.
5.2. install plywood preferred: ¾”, min thick 5/8”.
5.3. make it flat

6. Nail
6.1. plan the interleave
6.2. inspect the width of the planks.
6.3. regular nailer is used to face nail when the floor nailer is too big.
6.4. fastening each board with at least two fasteners
6.5. 8-10″ apart and 1-1 1/2″ from the ends (to avoid splitting).
6.6. Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps before fastening.
6.7. The last 1-2 rows will need to be face-nailed where clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler or brad nailer. Pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side following
6.8. spline. Cut the paint stick and glue the two grooves together if you have to join two grooves. If you want to join two planks with both grooves, you may cut a paint stick (the stick to stir the paint). The paint stick is just the right thickness.
6.9. High traffic area can apply glue to minimize squeaky floor boards later

If you want to see other videos of the series, visit the following links:
hardwood floor part 1: how to prepare
hardwood floor part3: how totrim
hardwood floor part 4: how to stair and handrail

Hardwood Floor –part 1: How to Prepare


This is the part 1 of the “Hardwood Floor” video series. If you want to see other videos of the series, visit the following links:
hardwood floor part2: how to install
hardwood floor part3: how totrim
hardwood floor part 4: how to stair and handrail
1.     What the video is about
In this video we are going to show you how to install the solid hardwood floor.
2.     Benefits/Drawbacks
What are the benefits of wood floor?  First, you need to know that there are two choices: pergo or solid hardwood.

2.1.    Pergo
Pergo is the name of a company in Sweden that makes laminate flooring products. The name “Pergo” has become a common term for laminate wood flooring. Laminate flooring is basically made out of plastic with a photographic image of wood sandwiched in between the layers of plastic. Laminate floors are very durable and great for high traffic areas and active families, however they cannot be refinished once scuffed up and/or scratched.

Pergo flooring costs much less than hardwood flooring. Installation of Pergo is much faster because it comes in sheets rather than individual boards and is usually just glued down rather than nailed. However I don’t like it because it is made of plastic.

2.2.    Solid Hardwood
Hardwood flooring is a solid piece of wood. It can range in thickness from half an inch to an inch, but is typically about three quarters of an inch thick like this one. The thicker one allows you to sand it multiple times when it wears down.

It can be prefinished (like this one) or unfinished (like this one).  In the past, unfinished hardwood flooring sales accounted for the majority of wood flooring sales, but the volume of pre-finished floors sold now is greater. This is party due to the fact that the installation of pre-finished wood flooring is less expensive and the installation is faster (as soon as the nailing is done, the installation is done). It is also due to the fact that pre-finished wood flooring has a more durable finish that can’t be achieved on floors finished on the job site. However, some people still use unfinished wood flooring because it is available in more widths and wood species. After you apply the final finish, the gaps may disappear and it can match to existing wood floors better.

We choose the prefinished flooring because pre-finished flooring is generally easier to install. Pre-finished wood works better in areas that receive high traffic and heavy wear and tear because it provides a more durable finish.
If you are trying to avoid fumes and a big mess, pre-finished flooring is cleaner to install.
If you are installing the floor in a room with high humidity, pre-finished flooring resists buckling and warping and is suitable for changes in climate.
If you are looking for a fast and easy installation, pre-finished flooring is the choice to make.
If you are looking to use engineered wood, most come pre-finished.

When to choose Unfinished

When trying to match to an existing floor or trim, unfinished wood is generally easier to stain to match.
If you are having the floors installed throughout your entire home, having the floor finished on site will provide a more uniform color and finish.
If you are looking for an unusual wood species or specific plank width, unfinished wood flooring offers the most options.
If your floor is not precisely level, you may opt for unfinished flooring because it doesn’t depend on a precisely level subfloor the way a pre-finished floor does.

Even though hardwood costs and installation is higher than Pergo,  hardwood can be well worth the investment as it can actually raise the value of your home because it is considered a high-end product.

Solid wood flooring is susceptible to high humidity and moisture so it should only be used on ground or above ground levels. You should think twice before considering using it in a basement. Due to the fact that solid wood floors are moisture sensitive they can have the tendency to expand, contract or cup. The cupping action causes the wood edges to stick up, which can lead to floor damage and even tripping.

Solid wood flooring is also sensitive to scratches, though this can be mitigated with your choice of wood flooring as well as how you finish/seal the floor.

Solid wood flooring is typically more expensive than laminate flooring such as Pergo, however it is well worth the investment. Solid wood flooring is actually one type of flooring that can raise the value of your home. If you are building, or have a high end home, then you should definitely go with solid wood flooring as most high end home buyers will prefer solid wood floors over Pergo, or other laminate flooring.

3.     If you choose solid hardwood floor, this is what you need
If you need to take out the old flooring then
3.1.    pry bar
3.2.    hammer, screw driver
3.3.     plywood and screws for plywood
3.4.    Pre-finished planks
3.5.    Miter Saw, Table Saw
3.6.    Planer, Sander (special planks)
3.7.    floor Nailer/mallet, nails
This one is expensive, about $500. You may rent it at home depot, however you will have the time pressure to finish it. My experience is that it will always take longer time to complete your work than you originally planned.  After two row of this length of nailing, my back will be really sore.
3.8.    regular nailer, nails
3.9.    compressor
3.10.    pliers (take out the nail)
3.11.    moisture barrier
4.     Safety first
4.1.    places in Multiple places
4.2.    Not save money
Safety first. Place multiple goggles in convenient places, so that you don’t have excuses not to use them. It is not worth losing your sexy eyes to save a few dollars.
If you want to see other videos of the series, visit the following links:
hardwood floor part2: how to install
hardwood floor part3: how totrim
hardwood floor part 4: how to stair and handrail

Fix: Kenmore Electrical Dryer motor OK but No heat

Kenmore Electrical Dryer motor OK but No heat. This model can not be opened from the back. Heating coil is broken.

Short term fix: Connecting the heating coil. However it could be dangerous. Shorter wires means less resistance, thus larger current. Twisting it without pressure leaves gaps, which in turn may produce spark. Currently the fix is using a very small bolt and nut to connect the broken coil. The bolt/nut needs to press the wire hard enough to reduce gap. But you can not choose the bolt/nut be too big to cause short to the ground. It has been running a few months now. The ultimate fix is to replace the coil.

How to replace Galvanized Pipe to Copper Pipe -Chinese Version

This is the Chinese version of “How to replace Galvanized Pipe to Copper Pipe”, by Dr. Zhang and Mrs. Zhang
We also have the same topic of English version here

Chinese Version Part 1:

Chinese Version Part 2:

  1. What the video is about

In this video we are going to show you how to replace your water supply galvanized steel pipes to copper pipes.

2. Benefits/Drawbacks

What are the benefits of replacing? First, you need to know that there are three choices: steel, copper or PVC piping.

2.1. Galvanized steel

Galvanized steel pipes will rust, and can accumulate minerals and bacteria. Look at this ugly one. If you just bought a house, if you see this is wrapped around the pipe, this is a temporary fix to stop leak, it is likely it will cause problems soon.

2.2. PVC

PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) never rusts. Not this ABS type. 66% US market water supply and 75% sewer. Easy to install, use this hacksaw, solvent etc. California has restrictions. It has health risks. I have already got rid of all my food plastic containers. I am concerned the plastics might leach chemicals. I would use it only for drain and waste.

2.3. Copper

Copper. Copper is durable, bacteria-resistant, costs less and is more easily installed than steel. It requires fewer fasteners than galvanized pipes. However copper rust is poisonous. The good thing is, the poison kills the bacteria, I don’t know about people. So many people have replaced galvanized steel with copper in recent years, I guess we’ll be finding out soon!

3. If you choose copper, this is what you need

3.1. Pipe

make sure to cover the ends since in the crawl space under the house it is dusty, if debris is inside the pipe, it will clog the filter at the faucet.

3.2. flexible tubes

3.3. Couplings

Couplings, there are different kinds, you may go home depot to buy more than you need to reduce the number of trips there. You may return it later if unused.

3.4. Cutting tool

3.5. Lead free Solder

3.6. Lead free flux

3.7. Straps, screws

3.8. torch

3.9. pipe wrench

4. Safety first

Safety first. Place multiple goggles in convenient places, so that you don’t have excuses not to use them. It is not worth losing your sexy eyes to save a few dollars.

5. Cut galvanized Pipe

5.1. strategic

Cut strategic places, minimize number of cuts.

5.2. Plugs and Caps

Use plugs and caps to temporarily block the water supply to different parts of the house rather than completely cutting the water supply. This is to reduce the stress on your family.

See diagram.

6. Cut Copper

6.1. Mark it

6.2. Double check

7. Solder

7.1. Safety

7.2. Practice first

7.3. sand it

7.4. Flux

7.5. Heat

7.6. Apply lead

7.7. How to re-do it

8. Re-connect

8.1. Single bathroom

If you are only replacing the pipes for one bathroom or kitchen, you may re-connect them right away.

8.1.1. Dielectric coupling

If you are doing a long term galvanized-copper connection, then use dielectric coupling.

8.2. Bypass

If you want to replace the complete house, you need to first make sure you completely understand the way the plumbing is laid out and which parts of the house will have to be without water at the same time. If two bathrooms are connected, as in this diagram here, it is best to keep both shut down until you are completely finished with both. This is because with water trapped inside the copper pipe, it takes long time to heat the copper pipe and is difficult to solder securely. Still, you need to have one to use, so if you do not have an additional bathroom, this may be a difficulty you will face.

8.3. Last Connection

You need to drain the water before any soldering.

8.3.1. Joint need to be Higher without water trapped inside

8.3.2. vertical

Choose a vertical pipe instead of horizontal pipe at the new joint.

How to replace Galvanized Pipe to Copper Pipe -English Version

This is the English version of “How to replace Galvanized Pipe to Copper Pipe”, by Dr. Zhang and Mr. Zhang
We also have the same topic of Chinese version here

English Version Part 1:

English Version Part 2:

  1.        What the video is about

In this video we are going to show you how to replace your water supply galvanized steel pipes to copper pipes.

2.            Benefits/Drawbacks

What are the benefits of replacing?  First, you need to know that there are three choices: steel, copper or PVC piping.

2.1.      Galvanized steel

Galvanized steel pipes will rust, and can accumulate minerals and bacteria. Look at this ugly one. If you just bought a house, if you see this is wrapped around the pipe, this is a temporary fix to stop leak, it is likely it will cause problems soon.

2.2.      PVC

PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) never rusts. Not this ABS type. 66% US market water supply and 75% sewer.  Easy to install, use this hacksaw, solvent etc. California has restrictions. It has health risks. I have already got rid of all my food plastic containers. I am concerned the plastics might leach chemicals. I would use it only for drain and waste.

2.3.      Copper

Copper. Copper is durable, bacteria-resistant, costs less and is more easily installed than steel. It requires fewer fasteners than galvanized pipes. However copper rust is poisonous. The good thing is, the poison kills the bacteria, I don’t know about people.   So many people have replaced galvanized steel with copper in recent years, I guess we’ll be finding out soon!

3.   If you choose copper, this is what you need

3.1.      Pipe

make sure to cover the ends since in the crawl space under the house it is dusty, if debris is inside the pipe, it will clog the filter at the faucet.

3.2.      flexible tubes

3.3.      Couplings

Couplings, there are different kinds, you may go home depot to buy more than you need to reduce the number of trips there. You may return it later if unused.

3.4.      Cutting tool

3.5.      Lead free Solder

3.6.      Lead free flux

3.7.      Straps, screws

3.8.      torch

3.9.      pipe wrench

4.            Safety first

Safety first. Place multiple goggles in convenient places, so that you don’t have excuses not to use them. It is not worth losing your sexy eyes to save a few dollars.

5.            Cut galvanized Pipe

5.1.      strategic

Cut strategic places, minimize number of cuts.

5.2.      Plugs and Caps

Use plugs and caps to temporarily block the water supply to different parts of the house rather than completely cutting the water supply.   This is to reduce the stress on your family.

See diagram.

6.            Cut Copper

6.1.      Mark it

6.2.      Double check

7.            Solder

7.1.      Safety

7.2.      Practice first

7.3.      sand it

7.4.      Flux

7.5.      Heat

7.6.      Apply lead

7.7.      How to re-do it

8.            Re-connect

8.1.      Single bathroom

If you are only replacing the pipes for one bathroom or kitchen, you may re-connect them right away.

8.1.1.      Dielectric coupling

If you are doing a long term galvanized-copper connection, then use dielectric coupling.

8.2.      Bypass

If you want to replace the complete house, you need to first make sure you completely understand the way the plumbing is laid out and which parts of the house will have to be without water at the same time.  If two bathrooms are connected, as in this diagram here, it is best to keep both shut down until you are completely finished with both.  This is because with water trapped inside the copper pipe, it takes long time to heat the copper pipe and is difficult to solder securely.  Still, you need to have one to use, so if you do not have an additional bathroom, this may be a difficulty you will face.

8.3.      Last Connection

You need to drain the water before any soldering.

8.3.1.      Joint need to be Higher without water trapped inside

8.3.2.      vertical

Choose a vertical pipe instead of horizontal pipe at the new joint.